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Julie’s, London: ‘Its time has clearly come again’ – restaurant review

Known as a hotspot for celeb parties, Julie’s is now also serving up great food for its own beautiful people

Julie’s, 135 Portland Road, London W11 4LW (020 7229 8331). Starters £6-£19, mains £12-£40, desserts £8-£10, wines from £30

It’s very tempting to discuss Julie’s in London’s Holland Park without ever mentioning the food. That would be a thing, wouldn’t it: a restaurant review that went big on the plump furnishings and the clientele, but didn’t mention a single dish? If ever there was a candidate for that treatment it’s Julie’s; a venerable neighbourhood bistro famous because Tina Turner once danced on a table, leaving her heel mark in the veneer, which they never repaired. Kate Moss had a birthday party here. Mick Jagger, Cat Stevens and Paul McCartney were once regulars.

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